Day 3 - Sušica Canyon (21st June)

Day 3 started off cold, damp and rainy. Much like Day 2.  

Ruined building shelter for the night

I was now "off the map" as far as my planning was concerned, but was fairly sure that if I headed south and east, I would end up at Nedajno to get access to the Sušica Canyon.  After a few hours wandering along misty minor roads, I did arrive at Nedajno, and to my surprise saw a house with a Nikšićko Pivo beer sign, selling food and drink.

Café in Nedajno

I certainly wasn't going to look this gift horse in the mouth, since it was the first eating establishment I'd seen in 3 days. However there didn't appear to be anyone around.  I checked the potato field round the back, and suddenly a lady appeared.  I couldn't understand what she was telling me, but eventually worked out that I should head round the back into the kitchen and hang my wet stuff up over the stove.  Meanwhile I dug out my Serbian phrase-book and managed to ask for bread, cheese and tea.

хлеб , сир и чај

The other funny thing that happened was that as soon as the lady realised I was English, she phoned her daughter and handed me the phone. I thought her daughter might be in the village and about to pop round for a cup of tea, but it transpired she was in Pluzine, which is about 10 miles away, so I just asked her how the weather was, and if she thought it would improve for tomorrow. She told me I would be fine to climb Bobotov Kuk tomorrow, which I found reassuring.

Potato field at Nedajno

Leaving Nedajno

Leaving Nedajno, I felt much refreshed from sitting in the warmth and having my first proper bite to eat for 3 days.  I had imagined rough hiking trail would follow next into Sušica Canyon, so was surprised to find a brand new tarmac road, albeit strewn with fallen rocks from the unprotected cliff faces.

Road into Sušica Canyon

Wooded trail in Sušica Canyon

At the base of the canyon the trail levelled out, then slowly climbed through forest, before a steeper section to Škrčko Jezero and the Skrka Mountain Hut. I had no idea if the Skrka hut would be manned, or sell any provisions, or would even be open.  So I had more or less prepared myself for another night of camping.  However when the hut came into view, I could see smoke rising from the chimney and a horse outside, so I figured somebody must be around.

Skrka Mountain Hut

Horse keeping guard

Another night of luxury accommodation

Cold and basic inside the Skrka Hut

Spartan interior of Skrka Hut

There was guardian for the hut, but he didn't speak a word of English and promptly disappeared.  The main door didn't close properly, or at all, so it was bitterly cold inside.  I slept with all my clothes on, inside my sleeping bag, and with a blanket, and was still cold.

There was nothing to eat at the hut, so for the 3rd night in a row my evening meal consisted of a handful of nuts I'd bought in Glasgow before I left.

It was cloudy over Bobotov Kuk, but I was hoping the weather would improve tomorrow.