Day 6 - Mojkovac & Biogradsko Lake (24th June)

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Day 6, up and away by 5:25am. After 500 metres I hit a perfectly good landrover track that meant the grassy wilderness was over and I was descending into the land of Katuns and mad barking dogs.

I was pleased to find a hosepipe and tap where I could get a good drink and fill up my water bottle. Then it was a just a question of marching the 26km of track and road to Mojkovac.

There were a few scattered showers, but by the time I reached Mojkovac it was warm, and I could strip down to shorts and T-shirt for the first time on the trip.

I crossed the River Tara and wandered into Mojkovac in the vague hope I might find a shop or something. Things didn't look too promising. All I could see was some sort of service station / bus stop that appeared to have a cafe and kiosk. Anyhow, I really needed to sit down after hiking for 5 hours, so grabbed a table in the cafe and ordered cheese & tomato sandwich and 2 cans of Coke.

Meanwhile, a local taxi driver followed me in and started raking through my maps, with ash dropping from the cigarette in his mouth, and asking me where I was going next, and offering me 'good price for taxi'. I told him I hadn't decided yet, and anyhow I'd be walking, which he didn't seem comprehend. So he waited, and waited, hoping I would capitulate, but I held my nerve - and even bought some chocolate at the kiosk - before walking past him again, and tried to give him a suitably contrite smile and wave as he glowered back at me.

And he wasn't the last taxi driver I had to deal with. At least 3 or 4 more stopped and hooted, and generally tried to cajole me into their taxi as I walked down the highway towards Biogradska Gora National Park.

I actually reached Biogradsko Lake fairly early in the afternoon, so wasn't sure what to do. I pootled around the visitor centre asking the lady what you called every stuffed bird in Serbian, which killed about 20 minutes.

I did briefly contemplate continuing up the trail, but it started raining heavily, so I thought I'd be better off camping in the car park, where there was some shelter with a big wooden roof over a picnic area. So at least I could lay all my kit out the tables to let it dry.

I then went for a wander around the lake, before picking up the broken glass in the car park to pitch my tent.

Looking back across the Sinjajevina wilderness

Katuns, sheep and mad barking dogs
26km of track to Mojkovac

Descending towards Mojkovac
Montenegrin men at work

Wild flowers - some sort of Campanula bellflowers

Common Chicory

Road into Mojkovac

Bridge over River Tara

Cafe in Mojkovac

Bridge over River Tara

Montenegrin unfiltered filter coffee

Biogradsko Lake

Camping in the car park

Biogradsko Lake at dusk

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